Rabaul, New Britian island, Papua New Guinea 88f and 200% humidity
Papua New Guinea ( PNG) is a group of islands that sit about 100 miles north of the northern tip of Australia. The main island New Guinea is divided in half with the western portion of the island belonging to Indonesia (Western New Guinea). Papua New Guinea refers to the eastern portion of the island plus some additional islands such as New Britian, where our destination of Rabaul is located.
Since 1883, the islands were divided and ruled over by Germany, Britain and Australia. During WW II, it was the site of Japanese occupation. Papua New Guinea established their sovereignty in 1975 becoming an independent Commonwealth with Charles III as the King but with an independent parliament.
PNG is a tropical climate creating an undergrowth that is nearly impenetrable. Only 13% of the population lives in urban areas. The terrain brings a very high cost to developing infrastructure and 85% of the population rely upon agriculture for subsistence or cash crops. There are some natural resources but again the terrain limits the exploration. I asked our guide what kind of work or industry was important in Rabaul. Her response was Copra(coconuts) and we have gardens. Tourism while an important piece of their economy is only now starting to come back after Covid.
There are approximately 1,000 cultural groups and 839 distinct languages recognized by PNG. A cultural group would be a village or tribe who created their own language, art, rituals, costumes, weapons etc. Due to the isolating terrain, it wasn’t unusual that a group was completely unaware of the outside world or many or any other tribes. Seashells were common currency until the 1930’s. Due to the large number of isolated tribes totally unaware of outside development, PNG was continually studied by a wide list of people including Margaret Meade.
When tribes were aware of each other, the result was battles or war. Their culture did not include working together only the need to exterminate any outside group. Headhunting and cannibalism were warfare rituals and the taking in of enemy spirits was victory. While it is thought that these activities have ceased in the late 20th century, there is still a lot of curiosity on the subject. When asked if there are any cannibals today, it is likely the response is “no, I ate the last one”. I’m sure that is people being tired of the same question over and over. Right?
PNG is not only considered a developing economy but is also very low on any standards or ranking for just about anything else. PNG is generally ranked as the worst country in the world for violence against women. Healthcare and education access is low. Rights or equal treatment for any group outside of males are nonexistent. While tribal violence has been the way of life, the introduction and growth of firearms has increased the violence and tribal massacres to include episodes in 2024.
All in all, a rather bleak description of life on this island country.
Rabaul on the island of New Britian as a destination, has a very good natural port, was a tourist destination for the reefs and water sports and has an important place in WW II. I’m pretty sure there are no 5 star resorts on the island.
PNG is part of the Pacific ‘ring of fire’ with 3 volcanoes located on New Britian island with 1 of them still very active. Rabaul was the provincial capital and most important city on the island until the 1994 eruption of the 3 volcanoes caused such an outpour of ash that 80% of the town collapsed under its weight and the airport was also destroyed. The town had enough notice that there were very few casualties but, the town ceased to exist.
They have slowly been rebuilding – the road system is a mess and is often ash lanes. The airport has been open for many years. The port was restored and is active today. They have schools, a hospital, stores but they still have quite a way to go. Chances are good the city will never regain its position of importance on the island. And with the volcanoes still active, you really have to ask why people would return as there are other urban areas on the island with less danger.
I was truly interested after knowing this what we would actually find on the island. As we got closer to the port, we passed the active volcano caldera where the steam was constantly ejected. The active volcano is the left mountain with the bowl-shaped top – not the one with peak.
We docked in the middle of town and were met by a group of male dancers. There was also a man dressed in the costume of the ‘Mud Man’ tribe, but I don’t know if this was just a paid photo op or truly a member of that tribe.
I think if you can enlarge this picture you will 2 small boys also in the dance costumes learning the steps that day. Very cute. We were not cleared to disembark yet so this picture was taken from the ship. Lined up along the dock are examples of the transportation for the tours.
I found a picture of the Mudmen along with information that the costume could be legit or more of a tourism idea in the 1950's. The gentleman was having a good time striking various warrior poses and passengers were flocking for pictures so perhaps that was a just intent. Pic is courtesy of Wikipedia.
I felt that we really stretched their resources during our visit. If you take a tour from the cruise there are normally buses that will hold 40 some people, air-conditioned nice seats etc. There were probably 50 plus 9 seat vans lined up to take people on tours. AC was the open window, and the temperature was high in the 80’s with a high amount of humidity. By the time you walked off the boat, you were covered in sweat and remained that way for the entire time. PNG is close to the equator and boy did you feel it.
We found out that the vans used to transport tour passengers were also used for school buses and the local bus system. When a cruise ship was in town, public schools closed and in town crowds of people waited at bus stops for greatly reduced service. Public bus transportation is personally owned vans that drivers set their own route based on who htey pick up. Using them for tour transport meant no one was going anywhere fast.
There was no infrastructure at any of the stops. The sites that we visited were always full of women selling souvenirs from blankets laid out on the ground. Men were directing parking which was always lacking. There were groups of school aged children at every stop, singing songs that were recognizable to the passengers in hopes of contributions. It was certainly a different experience but also fascinating to see how they coped with so many people and the short window of opportunity for selling/making some money.
The tour included several stops with one being at the foot of the volcano and a series of hot springs. The ‘hot springs’ were really boiling mud and water coming out of the earth and trickling into the sea. I was amazed that even after the warnings not to go near the boiling ground and then seeing the steam, the boiling bubbles of water and mud, how many people felt the need to see if it really was hot. I imagine the medical area dealt with its fair share of burns as some people couldn’t jump back fast enough. I don’t get it. This stop also provided a clear idea as to the devastation and amount of ash that fell in 1994. The guide indicated that 4 feet of ash fell and most of it has not been removed or dug out.
The boiling mud pots
Mounds of ash and stretches of fields of ash were prevalent. All the green is new growth since 1994.
We also stopped at the top of the caldera of an inactive volcano for a viewpoint of the harbor. The old town is on the left side of the port and new town on the right. There is also a volcanological observatory at the top of the caldera that monitors the volcanos for this and surrounding islands. Driving up that mountain, I realized that the tunnels dug by the Japanese were in the side of this dormant volcano. Some of the entrances looked more like caves or hand dug passages that most people would have a hard time standing up in. But very interestingly there were a couple that as you drove past you realized they were very sophisticated. Cement steps leading up to the entrance, cement walls and ceilings and passages going off from the main entrance. I don’t know if it is possible to tour the tunnels but I think that would be fascinating as I read they stored large equipment, ammunition, supplies, communication – things they wanted to protect in the event of airstrikes.
Next stop was a Japanese bunker and WWII museum. Rabaul was heavily bombed by the Japanese in January 1942 with Japan occupying the town shortly after that. It was bombed again by the Allies shortly after the Japanese occupation. Japan developed the base further with an air strip and submarine base in a deep harbor on the west side of town in addition to the tunnel system and support buildings.
Living quarters
Munitions left behind
Tanks and airplane pieces at the museum
On April 14 1943, Operation Vengence was authorized by the US. Intel was intercepted that Admiral Yamamoto, considered the architect of the bombing of Pearl Harbor would be flying from Rabaul on an inspection tour. There was quite a bit of concern that if the US acted on that information, Japan would know that the US had cracked their code and would change it. However, the plan was approved, and Yamamoto was shot down and killed by US planes.
The Allied forces instead of trying to retake Rabaul, established naval bases on different islands around Rabaul, rendering the Japanese base useless as all supply lines were severed. Rabaul was returned to Australia rule as part of the surrender in 1945.
We also stopped at a Japanese plane graveyard. This contained a variety of planes or plane sections that were waiting repair but eventually were left behind. Again, no infrastructure, no informational plaques, just decaying plane parts in several depressions in the ground.
Finally, a quick stop at the submarine base. This was kind of funny as it was simply some coastline, no buildings or infrastructure to look at or imagine what it might have looked like. I admit it was pouring at that point and without anything substantial to see, I snapped a picture of the coast right outside the van. Call me a wimp – its ok- don’t forget my broken foot.
I have to say, this port was intriguing. That cultures can exist and grow without any knowledge or exposure to the outside world would be fascinating to explore. To see the effects of a ‘recent’ eruption and the natural regrowth is interesting. I wish there had been a deeper level of knowledge of the WW II era with the guides, but they gave enough to validate what I had read or provided some different threads to follow up on.
Good news to me is that we will be crossing the equator and moving north to Kobe, Japan. Current weather temps are in the 40s and 50s - a welcome relief. Will we be too early for the Cherry blossoms? Stay tuned and let's find out.
Laikim yupela !
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