Agra, India 96f breezy and sunny
Before the cruise started, we were able to look online and consider the tours at each stop that the ship would make. I noticed that on several of the stops, multi-day trips were listed. You would leave the ship at one port, be gone for 2-3 nights and rejoin the ship at another port. All travel expenses were included. I wasn’t too excited until I read the trips from India – a trip to the Taj Mahal. I have generally said I wasn’t particularly interested in visiting India except to see the Taj Mahal. I signed up.
When the reroute of the cruise was announced, India was no longer on the itinerary. I assumed that the trip to the Taj Mahal was off the table for something that was no one’s fault as there was no information as to the status since the beginning of the voyage.
Skipping over a whole bunch of irritation over how Costa handles information on this voyage, the trip to the Taj Mahal had also been rerouted and could still continue. We would leave the ship after arriving at Colombo, Sri Lanka. Fly to New Delhi and overnight at a hotel. The next day take a train to Agra and tour the Taj Mahal. Return via bus to New Delhi that same day, overnight at the same hotel and the next day, fly to the Maldives and get back on the ship.
It was a single focus race – get in, see the Taj, get out.
I will continue to skip over the logistics issues and such (but I’m not bitter-really) and we will pick up at the point where we made it to New Delhi, spent the night and we are ready to leave for the train station. The most positive aspect about this race was that we were divided by language and there were only 6 passengers who identified themselves as English speaking – 3 Americans, 2 from Norway and I’m not sure where the 6th was from. But we had our own small bus, we could all spread out and it’s much easier getting 6 people to move along then 30. Importantly, we all had easy access to our guide for questions and requests.
We had to leave very early in the morning and the hotel provided a box breakfast. We would get a box of food on the train but had been advised that we should not eat it. It was simple and safe directions as no one really wanted any digestive upsets. Interestingly the hotel’s breakfast was really a boxed lunch with sandwiches etc.
We had about a 45 minute drive to the train station but at 6am, there wasn’t a lot of traffic. I had anticipated crushing traffic between cars, scooters, tuk-tuks, bicycles, donkey carts but not at that time in the morning. We were also driving through more upscale areas such as where all the embassies were located and that might have affected it as well. But there was still a lot to see. The tuk tuks were taxis and often loaded with either people or the things they needed to transport. Who thought such a small vehicle could be fully packed and still move.
All types of transport were available.
I also anticipated seeing lots of cows in the streets. We’ve all seen the pictures of cows loose in the streets, holding up traffic etc. I did see cows, but I think it was 3 for that trip. They respectfully kept on the sidewalk until they didn’t, and people were quite respectful and gave them right of way. I have no cow pictures. By the time you realize there is a cow on the street, you are well past them to take a picture. I did see some goats, but they were tethered and belonged to someone.
I always wondered why or how the cows ended up on the street anyway. If cows are sacred, didn’t they deserve better care? We engaged our tour guide on the subject and came away with some interesting and puzzling information. The cows on the streets at one point belonged to someone. It wouldn’t be unusual for a family to have a cow for milking. However, every cow reaches a point where they no longer produce milk, and it doesn’t make sense for the family to keep them. The expense of feeding an animal that provides the family with nothing doesn’t make economic sense. Keeping the cow at the house for the rest of their life wasn’t an option as it is considered a sin for a cow to die in your house or on your property. Which means at that point, they just open the gate and let the cow wander away.
So, who looks after the cows to make sure they are fed and cared for? If it is a sin to have a cow die on your property, it isn’t a sin to make them die in an alley somewhere? So many questions but there is no sense being rude or confrontation when in reality you are asking to understand the reasoning. Agreement isn’t part of the question.
I then was told something I would hear several times during this visit – ‘everyone eats’. The guide assured me that everyone looks out for the cows and makes sure that they have enough to eat. There is a bread that is made at the beginning of the day and the first piece is put aside for the cows and the last piece is saved for the stray dogs (another big problem). Part of the Hindu religion is that you are obligated to look out for anything in need, which includes feeding animals or people in need. Of course, I’m thinking bread probably isn’t a great diet for cows or dogs, but I asked to understand their approach, not argue.
The crowds had definitely increased on the grounds of the train station. Traffic was gridlocked, the streets were loaded with people selling things on tables or blankets on the ground. Food, fruit, veggies, things that people might need – no souvenirs. The tuk tuks were the only vehicles even slightly moving as they could maneuver in tight spaces. We were finally out of the bus about a 10 min walk to the train station. There were so many people selling things on the sidewalk, the street was the only place to walk. It was noisy and totally distracting. Keeping together in the group was a full time job.
As we entered the train station, the amount of people kept increasing. There were people of all ages sleeping on the floor. Waves of people moving towards their departure platform. The signage didn’t make a lot of sense but as long as I could see the tour guide, it was fine. So much to look at. I think the early morning trains to Agra are mainly visitors, so our platform wasn’t wall to wall people. But looking at other platforms, the number of people in the space was amazing.
We had assigned cars and seats so once we located everything and realized we had about 30 min before departure, it was time to look around. There was a small elderly woman asleep on the platform our train was departing from. The noise and movement were not disturbing her at all. Was this her normal sleeping place that it no longer interrupted her – was she alive? Yet I also noticed that people around her had dropped off water, a sandwich, fruit – is this ‘everyone eats’?
I had an opportunity to ask some questions of the tour guide before we left. I was watching trains arrive/depart around us and asked about train tickets and different classes of service. In India there are 5 classes of tickets on a train. The premise being there is a seat for every budget. The first division in the classes is between level 3 and 4. Levels 1-3, the cars are air conditioned. Level 4 and 5, no AC. I imagine between levels 1-3 it is things like open seating vs assigned seating. How many seats in a row. What kind of food if any, do you get or is there a dining car. Is there a sleeper car. I didn’t ask what level our tickets were – I had a seat in an AC coach, so I was good. This is the coach my group rode in.
As I watched other trains leaving, the level 4 and 5 were absolutely apparent. There was no glass in the windows but horizontal metal rods that might prevent a bigger child from falling out. Some windows had moveable black plastic shutters-I’m assuming to close and keep out dust or rain perhaps. People were hanging out of the windows and sitting on the open doors to each car – anything for some breeze. The cars themselves looked much older and smaller – no luxuries going on there.
Carrying large bags and boxes on your head was common. The color, style and fabric of the women’s saris were beautiful. Henna designs on hands were very common and quite intricate. It was so hard to remember to take pictures- it was all so interesting.
The trip itself was under 2 hours so by the time I snacked on my ‘breakfast’ and had a cat nap, we arrived in Agra. Now to the bus. The crowds were different. Once we stepped out of the train station, we were all marked. Not hard to spot a group of white people with saucer eyes and rather unsure of where to go. Obviously, we were foreign visitors, easy marks and the begging started. The number of begging children who were sent into the crowds were then scolded by the elderly begging as well. They all mumbled whatever and all knew the fingers to the mouth would be understood as I’m hungry.
The sheer number of people was overwhelming. But you could also see the situation start to play out. The young girl with the soulful eyes was expert at snagging a food box. But follow her and she ran to an adult and handed it over. There was a stack of about 12 different food boxes already. The old woman begging had a bag hidden in her clothes. What she was handed went into the bag so it never looked like she had anything. And the fingers to the mouth were in constant motion. It is the issue we struggle with as well – is the person standing on the corner hungry or does someone pick them up at the end of the day to go home.
We made it to the bus and ready for the day. It was another hot day but thankfully there was a pretty consistent breeze to help just a little. It was about a 20 min drive until we were dropped off at the main gates to the park. There were a variety of restrictions on all visitors. No smoking or vaping materials including lighters were allowed. No food, gum or candy could be brought in. No backpacks or large bags. Only essentials. You cannot bring your own water or things to drink. The ticket price included a bottle of water that was given to you. It was all about protecting the structures be it from pollution/smog of emissions to help decrease the environmental impact. No trash to be left or gum to be scraped up from the floor. Nothing sharp to prevent someone carving initials into a wall because they didn’t know it was old. Everybody went through a routine pat down. All females were given privacy with curtain enclosed spaces (that was also true at the airport).
Finally, we were through the entire gauntlet and could enjoy the compound. One more short walk through the area and soon we were facing the main gate to the gardens.
As you walked through the gate, the scene unfolded. The gardens around the Taj, the long pool of water that went from the steps of the gate to the steps of the Taj. The bench Princess Diana sat on for her iconic picture. The symmetry of the buildings, the shapes, colors – it is truly beautiful.
The taj Mahal is the inspiration of a love story- the embodiment of undying devotion. It was built by Shah Jahan, the 5th Mughal ruler of India for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It was relayed that the Shah and Mumtaz met at a local bazaar when he was 14, she 13. They immediately fell in love, and he was determined to marry her. However, Mumtaz was not of a royal family which meant she could not be his first wife. After marrying a royal princess who was the Empress, he was free to marry additional wives all entitled Empress Consort.
While he had 7 wives, most considered political moves, Mumtaz was considered his most favorite. Mumtaz died in 1631 during childbirth of their 14th child. During a long and difficult grieving period, the Shah decided to build a mausoleum for his wife. This is the purpose of the Taj Mahal.
It is a 42 acre compound including vast gardens, a mosque, guest house and other assorted buildings. The iconic centerpiece is the mausoleum, constructed of white marble and inlaid with semi-precious stones. The other buildings in the complex are red sandstone. Built between 1631 – 1651, over 20,000 workers and artisans were involved in the project.
The complex is built with absolute symmetry – the mosque on the left lines up with the mirrored guest house on the right of the mausoleum. The 4 minarets are lined up perfectly-you need to be off center to see all 4 at once. The sarcophagus of Mumtaz is the true center of the mausoleum. This was built as one perfect monument to one person.
But as the story continues, not everything is perfect. The Shah had planned an identical mausoleum, in black marble for himself across the river, but on the same acres of the complex. However as was common back in the 1600’s one of the Shah’s sons, killed all of his brothers and overthrew the Shah. The Shah was arrested, and he was imprisoned in the Agra fort for the rest of his life. It was noted that his cell had a view of the Taj Mahal so he could look to his wife every day. When the Shah died, the plans to construct the black marble mausoleum also died and his son decide to inter his father in the Taj Mahal. Since Mumtaz’s sarcophagus was the absolute center point, the presence of his father’s sarcophagus placed next to his mother's is the one unsymmetrical disturbance.
From the back view out the Taj is the river that the Shah was planning to build his black marble mausoleum on the other side. Just to the right of the column is the Agra Fort where the Shah was imprisoned until his death.
As a whole, it is stunning.
But looking at details is particularly interesting. One of the side domes with the main dome behind it. This gives you some idea of the inlay and ornamentation on the building. The marble blocks, the different patterns of inlay, the finials on every dome or post. The white marble will appear pink in the morning, white during the day and more orange at sunset.
The centerpiece of the Taj is the main dome. It is 75 ft tall and is directly above the tombs. It is a false dome meaning that there is a smaller dome under this dome that is architecturally supporting the building. The external dome is for the visual display.
All of the domes have the same finial or finishing. The marble at the top of the dome represents a lotus flower followed by marble carved in a twisted rope. The finial consists of Hindu and Muslim symbols. The top of the main dome finial is a Muslim symbol - a partial moon with the sides pointing to heaven.
Our guide wanted to clear up a myth that surrounds the fate of the artisans who completed the stone inlay and complex marble carvings. It was said that at the end of the project, the hands of the artisans were cut off to prevent anyone being able to use the technics on any other project. This was not the case. The artisans were paid never to work again.
In reality, the artisans while upholding that agreement, passed the knowledge down in their families. Those family lines are still passing along the secrets of construction and are the only artisans employed for the ongoing restoration and recreation that is needed throughout all time. They are refusing to teach the process to anyone else and demanding more pay for their skills. Here are some of the inlay examples found in various areas of the Taj.
The Taj Mahal overall history had some plundering of gold and silver during internal wars and survived without being bombed in more current wars. During WW I and WW II the building was enclosed in scaffolding to confuse any pilots sent to bomb the site. It was affected by general disrepair and environmental elements (pollution, emissions, water table levels under the building etc.) such as staining, cracking, and crumbling of the marble. The Indian government has responded to those crises in different ways. For example, there is 4,000 sq mile area around the monument where emissions are strictly controlled. In 1983 it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
As far as visiting the site, here are some interesting details if you are thinking of visiting.
---everyone puts on the protective booties (think the surgical shoe covers) before they can enter the mausoleum.
---You can only visit the main floor of the Taj. That consists of the main area with the 2 sarcophagus and the worship areas on either side. No photography of any kind is allowed, and people are expected to keep moving – no loitering or touching of stone etc.
--- the sarcophagus in the main area are false(empty) in that the bodies are actually entombed on the lower level in a private but much simpler setting. This is because the Muslim religion prohibits ornamentation of graves. You cannot visit the lower section.
---the gardens were renovated in the early 1900’s to the British style – still symmetrical but not what was originally present. There are monkeys living in the gardens today-do not consider them friends.
---there are plenty of stone benches around the area, but don’t you dare sit on a bench that has been in the sun. Pretty sure you could cook a pizza on them.
---be prepared to walk a fair distance from parking to the entrance of complex. They do supply some electric buses to carry people if preferred. Outside of the entrance you will be confronted with any number of people wanting to sell you something but always more than $2. But you can get close.
---even with a breeze, it was really hot. The temperatures would be more comfortable during winter. At any time be prepared for crowds and a lack of personal space or respect.
We won the race to see the Taj Mahal and it is beautiful.
We returned after dark to the hotel in New Delhi. Early the next morning we were at the airport on the plane to the Maldives. Unfortunately, we landed too late in the afternoon to really see anything on the island. We did have to take a water boat to the ship as it was not docked at a pier. Here are a few general pictures of the island from a distance.
Namaste !
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